Saturday, May 2, 2009

Street Trends

Zoot Suits

African American boy wearing Zoot Suit 1940s

Zoot Suits were characterized by wide legged trousers that tapered at the ankle and long suit jackets or coats, popularized by Mexican, African, Filipino and Italian Americans during the 1930s and 1940s.

Dior Homme Fall 2008
A modern, biker version of the zoot suit. Since zoot suits were popular among "gangster"-like cultures, this Dior Homme version stays true to the bad boy aesthetic.


Rag & Bone Fall 2009
Zoot suit with a little marching band & preppy influence.


Teddy Boys

Teddy Boys, Manchester, England 1955

Popularized by young men in London during the 1950s, Teddy Boys wore clothes inspired by the Edwardian period and Rock and Roll culture.

Charles Anastase Fall 2009
The long coat and slim trousers as well as the lacing at the waist are influences of the Teddy Boy subculture.


James Long, London Fall 2009
Teddy Boy culture made it fashionable for men to dress more stylishly.

Beatniks

The infamous Audrey Hepburn

Beatnik culture was characterized by a letting-go of material things and excess, hence the simplified shapes and monotone colors. It was popularized by artists and poets in the early 1950s to mid-1960s.

Albert Kriemier Fall 2008
High collars and minimal shapes are reminiscent of the Beatnik era.


Maurizio Pecoraro Fall 2008
Cap sleeves and natural waistlines were also popular during this time.


Mods

Mod Fashion 1960s
Perhaps popularized most in this generation by Austin Powers: Man of Mystery, Mod culture evolved in London in the mid-1950s as an affront to the dull colors that were fashionable at the time and the focus on class superiority.

Giorgio Armani Fall 2009
Mod styles were streamlined and sophisticated with a little edge, as emulated in this look by Armani.

Marni Fall 2009
Oversized, short coats were also popular in surprising color combinations. This silhouette and knee-socks are a very "mod" look.


Hippies

Hippies singing & dancing

Started in the 1960s in America, the Hippie movement was characterized by a group of people who formed communities based on the ideals of peace, sexual revolution, freedom of speech and equality.

BCBG Max Azria Fall 2007
Flowing dresses in soft, gauze-like fabrics were a staple during the Hippie period, as were beanie hats.

Isabel Marant Fall 2009


Disco

Abba was a worldwide sensation during the Disco Era of the 1970s

Disco was an evolution of the hippie movement, retaining its emphasis on sexual freedom and expression, but adding an element of high society, flash and sophistication. In the 1970s, Disco made dance music extremely popular and "being seen" became a national pastime.

Balmain Fall 2009
The use of metallic fabrics and sharp angles was popular during the Disco period.

Gucci Fall 2009
Form fitting clothes and low cut styles were also characteristic of this time.


Punk
The Go-Gos got their start in the LA Punk rock Scene

Punk culture emerged in the US, UK and other major cities during the mid-1970s as a youth trend focused on anti-establishment ideals and punk rock music. Hairstyles, clothes and music were all over-the-top and controversial. Vivienne Westwood is known for being the grandmother of the punk rock scene in London, with her shop, SEX Boutique, where punk artists and musicians would often hang out.

Afropunk style (began around the same time as Punk, more underground with bands like In Living Color)

John Selkirk Fall 2008
Tee shirts were a punk rock staple, often manipulated with rips, safety pins or screen-printed text and/or images.

Gucci Fall 2009
Punk rock influence is characterized by the silhouettes of these looks as well as some of the edgier materials and colors.


Hip Hop

Bands like NWA established a "from the street" image. (Ice Cube & Easy E are on the left)

Hip Hop arose in New York in the late-1970s mostly as a music and dance movement, mixing beats with impromptu poetry. Hip hop culture became an outlet for young African and Latino Americans to voice their concerns about what was going on in their neighborhoods and to bring their perspective on the world to the forefront. Hip Hop fashion has evolved from basics such as denim and bomber jackets to represent a particular streetwise and flashy aesthetic.

Sean John Fall 2008
Sophisticated and unconventional with a little gangster flair

Apple Bottoms by Nelly Fall 2008
Sexy and tight are indicative of Hip Hop fashion for women


Steam Punk

Girl in Steam Punk outfit

Steam Punk arose as a subculture in the 1980s as an expression of a time when steam power was still a main source of energy, particularly Victorian Era Europe. Steam punk art, products and fashion encapsulate a fantasy world that travels through time. An example is the artwork of HR Giger.

The James Gang outfitted by Alexander McQueen Fall 2008
A modern take on Victorian fashion worn by a group who demonstrated one of the Steampunk tenets of "human potential". The James Gang was one of four finalists on America's Got Talent in 2008.

Comme de Garcon Fall 2008
A simpler version of the Steampunk aesthetic.


Geek Chic

Geek Chi Girl on the Street

Geek culture became recognized in the 1990s and has more recently become fashionable. Characterized by horn-rimmed glasses, clothes that appear too small or too short, and an affinity towards comic book science fiction, etc., geek culture is a street trend that has until recently been unfashionable to align oneself with.

Trina Turk Fall 2008
The sweater vest turned chic with an interesting pattern, has been a nerd staple for years.


D&G Fall 2008
This undersized bomber jacket paired with glasses and plaid pants is an overshoot of the Geek Chic look.

Sources:
www.wikipedia.org
www.style.com
www.wwd.com
www.nytimes.com
www.google.com

Monday, April 20, 2009

Historical Artistic Styles

IMPRESSIONISM 19th century

Impressionism was an art movement in France that began in the 1860s. Implicit in its name, impressionism attempted to capture experience or mood of a situation or environment and was less about realistic depictions.


John Galliano for Dior 2008

ROCOCO 18th Century


Rococo was mainly a decorative art that existed in 18th century France. It was considered an opulent style and was characterized by shell-like structures and ornate details. Due to a peak in interest in Gothic architecture, the Rococo style gained popularity in England.


Marni 2008

DECONSTRUCTIONISM 1960s-1980s

Deconstructionist fashion was introduced in the 1970s and was characterized by showing the inside construction of garments and/or removing expected elements from clothes or switching their positions. For example: removing sleeves from a shirt and making them into pant legs.


Martin Magiela 2008

ART DECO 1925-1939

Art Deco was a very popular movement from 1925 to 1939 and remains a popular historical style having influenced architecture, interior design, graphic design, fashion and many other art forms.


Marc Jacobs 2007

EGYPTIAN circa 3200BC - 343BC


Egyptian dress consisted mainly of lightweight linen fabrics draped around the body. The Egyptians were also fond of ornamentation including wearing jewelry on the neck, head, wrists, anklets. Since wall paintings are the primary way that historians have learned about Egyptian clothing, it is sometimes difficult to distinguish this style from other draped styles. Egyptian styles tend to have straighter lines and are often cinched at the waist on women.


Chrisitian Siriano 2009

BELLE EPOQUE 19th century to WW1

Belle Epoque, “the beautiful age” was an era in late 18th century though early 19th century France that characterized by a life of comfort. Fashion during this period was opulent and carefree and led to the creation of haute couture.


Vivienne Westwood 2008


Sunday, March 29, 2009

Genealogy of the Power Suit


The power suit first appeared in 1980 as a statement against male social dominance and introduced the world to the new "working woman" in a way never done before. Famous female leaders of the past including Hatsheput (pictured above) represent a legacy of women in powerful positions who assumed male clothing and behaviors. Hatsheput was the fifth pharoah of the eighth dynasty of Ancient Egypt and was known to dress in traditional male garb and was referred to as "king". Other female leaders who were known to have dressed in traditional male attire were Vietnamese rebel leader, Trieu Au and of course, Joan of Arc.


Joan of Arc

Trieu Au


Ralph Lauren is credited with having introduced the power suit, however, there was definitely something similar happening in Europe, perhaps just slightly less career-oriented. The American power suit had wider shoulders and higher shoulder pads. In European designs, these elements were a little softer and found their way into formal wear as well.

Ralph Lauren, 1980

Calvin Klein, 1980

Giorgio Armani, 1980


Yves Saint Laurent, 1980

The power suit seems to have seen its day in the 1980s and then became too outrageous to endure. Perhaps Tina Turner's costume in the Mad Max movie of 1985 made the look seem too "costumey". Nonetheless, the look softened abruptly in the 1990s.

Tina Turner in Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, 1985
Designed by Norma Moriceau

A softer "power suit" inspired by a men's three-piece suit by Katherine Hamnett, 1998

The baggy look becomes popular in the 1990s evidenced by the less fitted version of the power suit by Ralph Lauren in 1999.

Today wide shoulders and shoulder pads are not as visible. They are of course a part of just about any well made suit, however the look is much more natural today than it was in the 80s. Although prominent padding of the shoulders has nearly vanished in today's fashion scene, emphasis on the shoulder area still remains especially in clothing geared toward a more fashion-conscious professional woman.

Ralph Lauren, AW2002

John Galliano for Dior, AW2006