Sunday, March 29, 2009

Genealogy of the Power Suit


The power suit first appeared in 1980 as a statement against male social dominance and introduced the world to the new "working woman" in a way never done before. Famous female leaders of the past including Hatsheput (pictured above) represent a legacy of women in powerful positions who assumed male clothing and behaviors. Hatsheput was the fifth pharoah of the eighth dynasty of Ancient Egypt and was known to dress in traditional male garb and was referred to as "king". Other female leaders who were known to have dressed in traditional male attire were Vietnamese rebel leader, Trieu Au and of course, Joan of Arc.


Joan of Arc

Trieu Au


Ralph Lauren is credited with having introduced the power suit, however, there was definitely something similar happening in Europe, perhaps just slightly less career-oriented. The American power suit had wider shoulders and higher shoulder pads. In European designs, these elements were a little softer and found their way into formal wear as well.

Ralph Lauren, 1980

Calvin Klein, 1980

Giorgio Armani, 1980


Yves Saint Laurent, 1980

The power suit seems to have seen its day in the 1980s and then became too outrageous to endure. Perhaps Tina Turner's costume in the Mad Max movie of 1985 made the look seem too "costumey". Nonetheless, the look softened abruptly in the 1990s.

Tina Turner in Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, 1985
Designed by Norma Moriceau

A softer "power suit" inspired by a men's three-piece suit by Katherine Hamnett, 1998

The baggy look becomes popular in the 1990s evidenced by the less fitted version of the power suit by Ralph Lauren in 1999.

Today wide shoulders and shoulder pads are not as visible. They are of course a part of just about any well made suit, however the look is much more natural today than it was in the 80s. Although prominent padding of the shoulders has nearly vanished in today's fashion scene, emphasis on the shoulder area still remains especially in clothing geared toward a more fashion-conscious professional woman.

Ralph Lauren, AW2002

John Galliano for Dior, AW2006




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