Genealogy of the Power Suit

The power suit first appeared in 1980 as a statement against male social dominance and introduced the world to the new "working woman" in a way never done before. Famous female leaders of the past including Hatsheput (pictured above) represent a legacy of women in powerful positions who assumed male clothing and behaviors. Hatsheput was the fifth pharoah of the eighth dynasty of Ancient Egypt and was known to dress in traditional male garb and was referred to as "king". Other female leaders who were known to have dressed in traditional male attire were Vietnamese rebel leader, Trieu Au and of course, Joan of Arc.

Joan of Arc

Trieu Au

Ralph Lauren is credited with having introduced the power suit, however, there was definitely something similar happening in Europe, perhaps just slightly less career-oriented. The American power suit had wider shoulders and higher shoulder pads. In European designs, these elements were a little softer and found their way into formal wear as well.

Ralph Lauren, 1980

Calvin Klein, 1980

Giorgio Armani, 1980

Yves Saint Laurent, 1980

The power suit seems to have seen its day in the 1980s and then became too outrageous to endure. Perhaps Tina Turner's costume in the Mad Max movie of 1985 made the look seem too "costumey". Nonetheless, the look softened abruptly in the 1990s.

Tina Turner in Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome, 1985

Designed by Norma Moriceau

A softer "power suit" inspired by a men's three-piece suit by Katherine Hamnett, 1998

The baggy look becomes popular in the 1990s evidenced by the less fitted version of the power suit by Ralph Lauren in 1999.

Today wide shoulders and shoulder pads are not as visible. They are of course a part of just about any well made suit, however the look is much more natural today than it was in the 80s. Although prominent padding of the shoulders has nearly vanished in today's fashion scene, emphasis on the shoulder area still remains especially in clothing geared toward a more fashion-conscious professional woman.

Ralph Lauren, AW2002

John Galliano for Dior, AW2006

Historical Draped & Tailored Garments

Garments that are classified as draped today may also have elements of tailoring. Today, it is rare to find a garment that is completely draped. For instance, the draped garment in Module 4, probably has some kind of interlining that holds the shape for the bust area. I find it difficult to classify more modern garments as either draped or tailored because there are usually elements of both techniques in their construction.

This dress work by a Native American girl taken in 1907, represents a historical draped garment.

The way kimono is worn is an example of draped garments. Kimono can be layered and worn at different lengths, and then obi is draped and tied to hold the garment in place.

This Madeleine Vionnet dress is from 1914. Vionnet is credited as having started the bias-cut draping revolution.

This dress was made in Victorian-era England by Madame Hawkes. It represents the epitome of high fashion tailored dress and would have been worn with a fitted corset and bustle underneath.

The "Souper dress" was made anonymously in response to the PopArt movement of the 1960s led by Andy Warhol. The shift dress represents the most basic elements of a tailored garment and is usually made entirely by pattern.

In the 1990s, Jean-Paul Gaultier reinvented the corset giving it a new edginess including visible "nips". In similar ways, Vivienne Westwood has used inspiration from Victorian corsets and bustles in her collections over the last 3 decades.